Un summer-like return to Paris in August

If you arrived at CDG Airport this morning, you would have witnessed unprecedented lines snaking from arrival gates to the immigration checkpoints. I've never seen lines this long in France. Once upon a time, I remember seeing similar lines for foreigners at JFK, but that was before Homeland Security managed to scare any willing tourists off to more distant lands. But NEVER in France, where the border police desultorily glance at passports as arrivals slip through.

I thought I had timed my return before 'la grande rentree' but hadn't counted on this year's culprit- the bad weather. August, and most of July, has been so un-estivale, that vacationers have literally thrown in the towel, or left it on the beach if they even made it that far, to come home early.

Fortunately, my brand new hip enables me to order a wheelchair, bypassing the thick crowd of grumbling impatient travelers not moving forward in the line, directly to my waiting (!)luggage and empty taxi stand. I warn the taxi manager to start lining up the taxis for the inevitable crunch that is about to hit, as nothing irritates me more than seeing mash-up of taxis sitting in a holding pit below while we wait for their far too leisurely emergence from taxi purgatory.

It's 65 degrees, overcast, and drizzly and I see alot of glum faces heading back to the capital.

This being France, the inclement weather has had its impact on the eternal discussion - gastronomy. Reports state that the bad weather has ice cream and soft drink vendors complaining about the lack of commerce. Tourists have traded their usual desire for salads and frosty drinks for comfort food-warming soups and legumes, finished off with copious helpings of chocolate, whose sales have surged-no doubt to help depressed vacationers up their dopamine levels from the dismaying weather.

At least, there's still a few weeks left of Paris Plage....although someone should tell the weatherman, because today looks like another drizzler.

Paris Mayor's National Tourist Day

Monday, July 9th was National Tourist Day as declared by the much maligned (and for cause) Paris Mayor Bertrand Delanoe. Delanoe is kicking off a campaign to change the image of Paris as arguably the most beautiful city in the world but sadly offset by a reputation of having the grumpiest and rudest denizens.

As Parisians don't feel they are rude, and the director of the Paris Tourist Office claims that they are simply too shy to speak English because of their funny accent, I an doubtful, yet curious to see if this 'awareness' campaign will result in any noticeable difference.

I am pretty sure they should be starting a lot earlier-namely in the early school years when one first learns how to treat others, so I remain fairly skeptical.

That said, for every grincheux Parisian encounter, there is generally a follow-up with a helpful Frenchman with a sense of humour to boot, so it probably balances out in the end...

Fall weather in July

That's funny. I just learned that in French, there is a song that goes 'il pleut bergere'. The literal translation would be 'it's raining shepherdess(es)'.

I suppose the image is no more strange than 'it's raining cats and dogs', and haven't a clue as to how one or the other were adopted!

But that's just a nursery rhyme. In fact, we say 'il pleut les cordes', it's raining ropes', slightly easier to imagine, especially lately.

I am enjoying the weather in Paris, which is cool enough to feel like fall, but it is starting to wear everyone down, me included. There is no proper comfortable way to dress. Within a half hour, and every half hour, we get a burst of sunshine and heat, rainfall - sometimes quite tempestuous, and plenty of wind. It is impossible to leave the house without an extra sweater, a lighter t-shirt, a Macintosh (not the computer) and brolly. Wellingtons would be useful, as well as a pair of sandals. And a helper to carry it all!

Crazy weather!

I heard something on France Info this morning about a small manif today-something to do with immigration over by place Stalingrad. As it is Sunday, as half the parisians have already left for summer vacation, and as Stalingrad is not a major thoroughfare, it doesn't sound like it will be terribly disruptive (or productive).

Louis Vuitton Champs Elysées (finally) allowed to open Sundays

Victory for Louis Vuitton Champs Elysées who has finally won the right to open Sundays, starting today, July 1.

But not for the reasons you would expect. Not because of its superb location at the angle of the most touristic and perhaps expensive street in the world and the Avenue Georges V - smack-dab in the heart of the Triangle d'Or. Not because this enables tourists to fly in for a week-end and shop till they drop-especially the Japanese.

Louis Vuitton is allowed to open because the courts have classified it as a 'Centre Culturel'. Yes, there is a browsing library as well as an exhibition space with currently, an exhibit of Philippe Starck. I imagine that 90% of the traffic will be for shopping.

As this is France, there is organized opposition to this concession. Law dictates that no more than 30% of the Champs Elysees be open on Sunday-this is still a Catholic country, and and according to the Catholic Church, Sunday is still a day of rest. But the real reason for this protection is supposedly because the smaller businesses can't afford the extra labor and will be driven out of business.

The real battle lies who between those who wish to preserve their vision of the traditional French lifestyle, and those who are trying to expand flexibility in the workplace and bring France into the 21st century.

Read about the debate

French child rearing

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I ate with a friend in the Closerie des Lilas which, much to my surprise, is a real pick-up place. Next to us was an obviously divorced man with his 10 year old son. At the table next to him was a man I at first mistook for a woman, and at the adjoining table were two young woman clearly looking for some action. This man completely ignored his son while flirting alternatively with the man and the two women. The poor child, who should never have been there in the first place was totally bored, completely ignored. I am still choking from the smoke of last night. How selfish and thoughtless can a parent be?

I wanted to chastise that man (my reaction is in fact alot more violent than that, I'd rather choke him), but instead spent a few moments talking to his son, Florent, who is sweet now, is a fan of Andy Roddick (yea!) and will find it hard to grow up and not be an angry rebel. There will be retribution when the son is old enough. I'd like to whisk Florent away to a school that practices the KPM Approach to Children, where he would feel cherished, unique and not like an extra piece of baggage to be lugged around and dumped when inconvenient.

Not being French, I can't say it, but since my friend does-it is a case of incredible egoism. It's incomprehensible-each and all out for their own personal satisfaction, not thinking of other's needs or welfare. The children suffer the most and then grow up to be just like their parents, their role models. Parents: WAKE UP.

Is this taught in schools? It's pretty hard to be this selfish left to your own devices.

Gay Pride Parade

Much to my chagrin, the Gay Pride Parade will start at the Bastille and finish at Montparnasse-not far from my apartment. I thought it was starting here and was relieved that I would be able to go out later. Now I feel trapped for the day.
I have only witnessed the parade in New York, but once was more than enough. I hate crowds!